Table of Contents: Introduction Questions and Updates Glossary Common Terms Commonly Confused Terms Statistics Starting Out (and resetting) Resetting Starting Out Quests Allies Allies Plunder Allies Bonus Notes Key Points Clans and Wars Clans Wars Spies Mercs Pots Community Etique BBCode The Oracle Transfering/Linking Conclusion Introduction This is a guide to cover most (and hopefully eventually all) aspects of KaW. I will always be updating this thread. If you have suggestions, wall me, or pal me (find me in the "KaW" room by searching "raekye"). Version 2.0 has major reorganization changes hopefully to make this extensive guide easier to read . Questions and Updates When is the new update coming out? New buildings/upgrades and more achievements and achievement bonuses will be coming soon. It is confirmed, but noone knows when it'll be coming. We just no it's soon. Do not bug anyone, including the admins, for a date. A new revamped web version should be out within 1 week (players are beta testing). Devs said that new buildings/upgrades will be soon after the web update, but we do not know exactly. Castles...? There is no upgrade for the castle. At the moment, you can't do anything to, with, or about the castle. There is no upgrade, and no upgrade is planned for the near future. Do not ask devs, or us about it. If you are jailbroken, you can switch system files so it looks like you have an upgraded castle. If you scout anyone, it's a level 1 castle. There is also no "castle code". What happens when I reset? You lose everything but unspent nobility and crystals and speakers (whatever it shows in the oracle), permanent items, wallposts, achieved achievements, and clan ownership. This means you lose lands, pots, allies, etc.. There is no need to reset unless you are lc!!! Read the guide on how to make gold or wall me for specific help. Wallposts and newsfeed will still lead to your new profile. What clan should I join? Join a subclan of someone in the top 50. Pick anyone you like. Do not go simply based on someone asking you. I got muted? You can be muted for anything interpreted as: spam, bypassing the filter (includes referal code), racist, swearing, or anything interpretted as inappropriate. You do not need to be given a warning! However, if you feel it was unfair, contact the devs at support@athinkingape.com How do I post images/use special text effects? Explained below in Community, under BBCode. I need to transfer my old account. Linking? Explained below in Transfer/Linking. I need cash - what should I do? Hire allies and attack inactives - also join a subclan of someone in the top 50. I need a war - where do I go? It's best to find a friend for a friendly/practice war. Ensures safety and all. If you're settling a dispute with a clan, ask their leader if they want to do an official war to settle it. Obviously, you should expect mercs to be brung in in this situation (even stripping). I got a question, what do I do? Best is to ask the forums (make a thread), or wall cowlegend999 or benny, or ask in wc when tmh is on (you see him posting in it) What are speakers? Speakers are used to talk in wc - it's designed to prevent spam. You regenerate 5 speakers a day on an iDevice, or you can trade them 1 for 1 with nobility. I got an idea, what do I do? First, make sure it's a brand new idea. Then, make a thread in the forums. Be conservative - title should be like "War Idea?" and content should be like "so I have this idea... what do you guys think?" How are pots used? When someone hits you, the game will calculate what are your chances of winning. If it is 99%, no pots will be used. If it is not 99%, the game will calculate which pots are needed to gain a 99% chance of winning, starting with the weakest pots. So if with the first 2 pots I'll have a 99% chance of winning, that's all that will be used. If with 7 pots I'll have a 99% chance of winning, that's all that will be used. If with all pots you still don't have 99% chance of winning, the game will use all of the pots you have. Glossary Common Terms lb: leaderboard wc: world chat cc: clan chat ca: clan announcement pal: palringo - free app, used by most to communicate pin: hit/assasinate until the defender is "Too Weak" sit: constantly pinning the defender (nonstop) volley: constantly hire someone between two or more players DO NOT ASK FOR THIS farming: to hit a player over 5 times a day FOR 2 OR MORE CONSECUTIVE DAYS!!! osf: open spy farm (pure spy who leaves gold out to be hit) nuf: nightly unlimited farm (osf that allows unlimited hits when they're open) pots: stuff from the marketplace (gives stat boosts) lc: land complete - explored all 25 lands bc: build complete - all highest tier and max upgraded buildings for all 25 lands dtw: defender too weak pm: private message (in pal) tos: terms of service bypassing: avoid the text filters, you can be muted for this xtal: health crystals used to regen nob: nobility points regen: regenerating troops; every 5 minutes you get 2 hits worth of troops with minimum troop loss (similar for spies), 60 minutes (65 for balanced building) for full regen sub, circle, avary - subteranean factory, sumoning circle, war avary t1, t2, t3, l(vl)1, l(vl)2, l(vl)3, l(vl)4: tier 1 (buildings), tier 2, tier 3, level 1 (building), level 2, level 3, level 4 ass: assasinate keep: owning an ally strip: buy enemy allies then hit or steal burn: keep attacking or stealing/assasinating to waste an enemies pots mtl: minimum troop loss - when you are just that much stronger than the defender, you'll lose a minimum ammount of troops per the total troops you can have pure spy: only guilds build build: combination of buildings atk building, balanced building, def building: each tier has 3 buildings: buildings with more atk than def, buildings with equal atk and def, and buildings with more def than atk; the atk/balanced/def refers to the building with that higher stat to wall: post message on someone's wall to pal: pm someone in pal hansel build: 1 troop building 23 (or rest) guilds growing: still in the proccess of exploring all lands and/or maxing out your buildings (going for lcbc) plunder war: war against osfs only to gain high plunder Commonly Confused Terms Here are the terms you should try to use: bta (official=allies bonus to others; casual=stats) - your bonus to your owner's real stats and what other people see on your profile (and what you see on theirs) bfa (official=bonuses from allies; casual=allies bonus) - bonuses to your real stats you have from your hired allies real attack/defense/spy - stats you see at the top of your profile and the "currency" the game displays stats in allies plunder (official=allies bonus casual=plunder) - money made during an attack capped by buildings and strength difference varies due to money invested in allies troop/spy plunder (official=plunder casual=plunder) - money made during an attack or spy varying due to strength difference and troop/spy count max plunder (official=N/A casual=max plunder) - when you've reached your cap for allies plunder plunder cap (official=N/A casual=plunder cap) - the maximum you can make for allies plunder As you can see, many of these terms are confusing and overlapping. The official term is what the game calls it and the casual term is what people use currently as I am writing this thread. If we all try to use these terms instead, it'll be less confusing and easier for nublets to understand = grow faster = less noob! The first and simpler issue is with the allies plunder. It's simply a misuse of words. So when you attack someone, if you win, the income from that battle is calculated in two areas. Theres the top number labeled "Plunder" and the second number labeled "Allies Bonus". We'll call the top number Troops (or spy when stealing) Plunder and the second number "Allies Plunder". During a war there is also "War Tax" under the allies plunder that is 20% of your total plunder from the attack. This will be clarified in the clan/war section. The more troops you have when attacking, the more troops plunder you will earn. Depending on your total strength (bfa and real stats, leaving out permanent items and pots) and your opponent's total strength, the troops plunder will also vary (the stronger you are, the less you earn from troops plunder). Allies plunder is based on two factors: your buildings and your opponenent's buildings, and the total ammount of money you have in allies. The more money you have in allies, the more money you will make. This is capped however by your building strength versus your opponent's building strength. This strength ratio is static, kind of like comparing your allies bonuses. Each building also has a plunder cap. An example is this. A lvl3 sub is "stronger" than a lvl4 guild, so when attacking someone you will make less. It's stupid but the stronger you are, the less you make. With a lvl4 guild instead of a lvl3 sub, the game thinks you're "weaker" so it rewards you with a higher allies plunder cap (maximum you can make). A lvl4 guild also has a higher plunder cap so your plunder cap is raised some more. With 0 allies, you'll earn 0 allies plunder. When LCBC, 10b in allies should be enough to achieve max plunder on any target. The reason why hansel builds make more gold is because the game thinks they're weak versus other atk builds. For example, lets take a hansel build with 1 avary and 23 guilds and an atk build with 1 avary and 23 subs. When attacking the same target, if they both have 10b in allies, the hansel build will make more because the game calculates the guilds as weaker than the subs, and rewards the hansel build with a higher plunder cap, and in addition the guilds naturally bring in more plunder. To clarify, troops plunder is hard to control and is much lower anyways, so people usually ignore it. Allies plunder will vary each time depending on your strength and your opponent's strength (only factoring buildings). For spies, they only get spy plunder so it's best for them to steal a few times at full troops then regen, since they'll make more. But spies werent made to be the centerpiece of the game, so usually spies have different purposes than making money (e.g.: mercing, griefing, stripping, etc.) The second issue is harder to explain. It's one of those things that you just kinda have to understand. I will try to make this as simple as possible. Its part of why I made this guide - it seems that it's so hard to explain all the guides I saw left it out. I'm here to try to tackle it. So like most games, you have your attack, and defense, and stat boosts. KaW has it too. The thing is, when you look at everyone else's profile, you don't actually see their real attack and defense. It's labeled as attack and defense but its A TRAP!!! It is closely related to their real attack and all, so most people either get tricked into strategizing with that or they just use it anyways since it's easier. So this is how your basic stat goes. We'll use attack most of the time as an example. Here's one (stats aren't completely real). I have my kingdom. In my kingdom I have 24 buildings. Each building has 2000 troops. Each troop has 100 atk. You can see this number on the page where you choose which building to build. So 1 building has 200 000 atk. I have 24 buildings, so I have 4 800 000 atk. When you attack someone, you lose troops. So if I attack someone and lose 2000 troops, I only have 46 000 troops. Each troop has 100 atk. So that's 4 600 000 atk now. You see these stats at the top of the profile. Now there's bta. Your bta is exactly 1/50 of the stats purely from the building. So you can say each building you raise increases your bta by 1/50 of its strength at max troops. This is what you see on other's profiles. This is static. So lets take one of those buildings I had. Each building has 200 000 atk right? So that means that increased my bta (from when I didn't have it) by 4000. Now that's how it's related. Bta is calculated with max troops (it doesn't fluctuate). So with my build above, I'd have 96 000 atk bta. This is what everyone else sees on my profile. Bta is ONLY affected by your buildings. The bta of each building is the stat of each troop it produces multiplied by the max number of troops that building can hold divided by 50. For your total bta, you add up all the btas of each building you own. Now you know how bta is related and calculated, and you know what your true strength is. ANY bonuses shown in the game is added to your true strength (real stats). In this game, you hirer other players and they give bonuses to your strength. This is why it shows their bta on their profile; if you hirer them that's the bonus stats to be added to your real strength. Pots and permanent items also add to your real strength. Unfortunately, the game only shows your "raw strength" which is the strength only from the buildings. Where it shows your attack it'll have a number in the form n/d. The "n" is your current/real stat, and the "d" is your max stats with full troops (if you're at half troops, you only have half the troops supplying atk versus if you're at full troops). So you could also just divide the "d" by 50 to find out your bta. Remember, any bonus stats are never shown together for your total strength. So how would you calculate your total strength? So first you take your real atk ("n" in n/d on the top of your profile). Add any percentage boosts from permanent items (ignore the +300 or whatever from your banner or any other small static boosts; these are almost 0 anyways). So if I have 1m atk adding 25% that's 1.25m. Add your bfa. Add the boosts from any pots you will be using (~35m for all atk/def pots).This is your total strength AT THE MOMENT!!! Remember, as your troops regenerate or as you lose troops from attacking or defending, you gain or lose building strength. This will increase or lower your total strength, since part of your total strength is from building/troop strength. In addition, you won't get as many percentage bonuses (25% of 1m is more than 25% of .5m). Now, in battle, it's easier to guestimate using in bta format since it's what you see on your enemy's profile and it's a much smaller number. So you can use the steps above to calculate your current strength in bta and do the same for your opponent, guessing his pots, allies bonus, and any permanent items he may have. Stats: The game calculates everything by real stats. When you build a building, you see stats in the 100s. Like a max sub has 540 atk. This is the stats of each unit. So a max sub has 2000 units, so you multiply 540 by 2000 to get 1080000. This is the real atk of that building. Allies bonus to others is purely from your buildings. To convert real stats to allies bonus to others (I'll shorten to bta), you divide your real stats by 50. So you get 21600 for a sub. Any bonuses in the game are added to your real stats. You only see bta on other's profiles, so most people shorten allies bonus to others to stats. Your allies bonus is the extra stat boost (shown in the form of real stats) from your hired allies. However, your real stats are what's used in battle calculations. At the top of your profile, you'll see your real attack, real defense, etc. in the form of a fraction as numerator/denominator. The numerator is your current stat, which is used in battle calculations. Potions, allies, permanent items, and anything I've missed add to this stat. Usually you'll calculate to yourself (winning percentage when attacking someone) using their allies bonus (since that's what you'll see on most people's profiles). So, simply divide your real stats by 50 (include all the bonuses for more accurate strength). Remember though that you must also take into count of your opponent's bonuses. An example is if a pure spy hires someone with 1 sub (explained its stats above), they'll get the 21600 atk bonus to their atk (which is 0). This isn't added to his bta, since bta is only based on buildings. But if he wants to calculate his win percentage against another player in the format allies bonus (since the numbers are smaller and he's more use to seeing them) he'll divide his 21600 atk bonus from allies, which is in the form of his real stats, by 50, to get 432 atk. So essentially, he has more attack than someone who just started and built 1 t1 l1 atk building . This is a really complicated issue, you can wall or pal me for further explanations. So basically: Your real stats are what's used in battle stuff; pots, allies bonus from others, etc.. Statistics Here are some numbers about kaw: When you drop an ally, or he resets, you get back 70% of the price you paid for him. When an ally is dropped, the ally's price decreases by 25%. After three days of no ownership, the ally's price decreases by 25%. When being attacked, you lose 1% of the gold you have out. This is different if the attacker is a ton stronger than you, in which you lose based on their strength versus yours (stronger they are, more you lose) or if you have only a little gold out (less than 1b) then the loss is also based on strength comparison. When being stolen, you lose 0.08% of the gold you have out. Like attacks, there are the different conditions which are identical (if opponent is super strong, you lose more; if you have only a little gold out, you lose based on strength again). When an ally is hired: a) you make 1.5% of the price you hired the ally; b) the ally's price goes up by 5% c) the ally gets ~1.5% of their hire price, but it is capped at 1 million. When razing a building, you get 20% of the money you've spent on it. When selling potions, you get 75% of their value back. Land costs (~11.6b total): Free Free Free 5k, Free if on computer. 30k 150k 300k 750k 1.5m 2.5m 3.5m 5m 10m 20m 60m 100m 200m 300m 600m 900m 1.2b 1.5b 1.8b 2.1b 3b Buildings (shown as level. cost - regen rate/total troops - stats (in bonus to allies form)) Workshop (T1 Attack Building) 25k - 42/500 - 400/200/0/0 200k - 83/1000 - 500/300/0/0 1.5m - 167/2000 - 600/400/0/0 Stables (T1 Balanced Building) 25k - 42/500 - 300/300/0/0 200k - 83/1000 - 400/400/0/0 1.5m - 167/2000 - 500/500/0/0 Barracks (T2 Defense Building) 25k - 42/500 - 200/400/0/0 200k - 83/1000 - 300/500/0/0 1.5m - 167/2000 - 400/600/0/0 Forge (T2 Attack Building) 1.75m - 42/500 - 1200/600/0/0 3m - 83/1000 - 3000/1800/0/0 5m - 167/2000 - 7200/4800/0/0 Beastiary (T2 Balanced Building) - Effect: Higher total units. Loses less units. Regens slower. Earns 5% less plunder. Still has same regen ratio (2 hits in 5 minutes); has 65 minutes to full regen but 26 hits from full regen. Better for crystalling (always have one in your build). 1.75m - 41/525 - 950/950/0/0 3m - 81/1050 - 2500/2500/0/0 5m - 161/2100 - 6720/6720/0/0 War Cathedral (T2 Defense Building) - Effect: Each War Cathedral earns 5% more plunder compared to if it was a Forge. So each one of these buildings is earning 5% more plunder than what it would normally be. This does not raise your plunder cap. 1.75m - 42/500 - 750/1200/0/0 3m - 83/1000 - 2100/3000/0/0 5m - 167/2000 - 5600/7200/0/0 Subterranean Factory (T3 Attack Building) 130m - 42/500 - 3600/1800/0/0 350m - 83/1000 - 9000/5400/0/0 850m - 167/2000 - 21600/14400/0/0 War Aviary (T3 Balanced Building) - Effect: Higher total units. Loses less units. Regens slower. Earns 5% less plunder. Still has same regen ratio (2 hits in 5 minutes); has 65 minutes to full regen but 26 hits from full regen. Better for crystalling (always have one in your build). 130m - 41/525 - 2850/2850/0/0 350m - 81/1050 - 7400/7400/0/0 850m - 161/2100 - 19740/19740/0/0 Summoning Circle (T3 Defense Building) - Each Summoning Circle earns 5% more plunder compared to if it was a Forge. So each one of these buildings is earning 5% more plunder than what it would normally be. This does not raise your plunder cap. 130m - 42/500 - 2150/3600/0/0 350m - 83/1000 - 6300/9000/0/0 850m - 167/2000 - 16400/21600/0/0 Guild (Spy Building) 25k - 42/500 - 0/0/150/150 2.5m - 125/1500 - 0/0/900/900 75m - 375/4500 - 0/0/5400/5400 Level 4: 900m - 750/9000 - 0/0/13500/13500 Defensive Tower (Defense Tower (static defense)) 25k - 0/750/0/0 4.75m - 0/5625/0/0 30m - 0/40500/0/0 Lookout Tower (Spy Defense Tower (static spy defense)) 25k - 0/0/225/0 2.5m - 0/0/1350/0 75m - 0/0/8100/0 Level 4: 900m - 0/0/20250/0 Starting Out Resetting When you land complete, you can reset for some bonuses. The first 4 land complete resets gives permanent items, adding percentage boosts to stats (totally to 8% for each stat). The boosts are: 3% to attack and spy attack 3% to defense and spy defense 5% to attack and defense 5% to spy attack and spy defense There are no extra items after that, but each time you land complete reset (including the first 4 times) you get an additional 50 ally slots (normally you are capped at 250 allies). I would recommend doing the reset cycle 4 times, for the 4 items, and I will tell you why and how to make it less painful. However, if you think you will quit this game soon, don't do the resets. The rewards are long term. So first of all, the extra ally slots really help. The higher price range you go, the worse stat-to-price ratio allies have. So in the long run, you'll have better bonus from allies (crucial in this game) than if you hadn't done the resets (although this benefit is after at least a year). So 4 resets is a good number, for 200 extra allies, and it also gives you all the cool permanent items. For any extra resets, it'll take too long for the benefits to show. Now, I just want to explain how the bonus items do not help in a war. You see, percentage bonuses add to your current strength, as explained in the above section. So lets say I have 20 million real attack. 8% of this means total of 21.6 million real attack. This is good, but in a war, you should stay under 20% troops so you can't be hit, earning your enemies plunder. So 20% of 20 million is 4 million, and 8% bonus to that isa total of 4.32 million real attack, which is 6400 attack in bonus to allies format (less than a maxed forge). So you got a 0.32 million bonus. Whereas, if you hadn't reset, you'd have about 70b (44b from just the resets, then there's the other factors such as if you hadn't reset, you would be making 10m a hit still, not 1m). As I am writing this guide, 70b can get you 3.5m real atk bonus, which is 70k in allies bonus format. That's over 10 times the bonus from resetting. Now so, I really like this game - I'm ready to reset - what do I do? Here's a guideline: Multiply your hire cost by 0.3. This is how much your owner will lose when you reset on him. Add the number from step 1 to 45b. If you have clanmates or friends that you know can hire this much gold off you in allies, great! If not, divide this number by 0.7. The result in step 2, is how much you want to save in allies before you reset. Save up! Sell/drop your allies. Now, transfer the ammount of gold in step 1 to your owner. Transfer the rest of the gold to a friend you can trust. Sell remaining pots and buildings too (and transfer). Take a deep breath, and reset! If you are going to do the quick resets (as I'm explaining here) your new name should be something like "resetting-today". Now, get your friend you transfered gold to to volley you to 300m. With your gold, start transfering your gold back. You will need ~11.7b to lc. Explore your lands, and don't build anything. Once you've transfered enough to explore all lands, stop. You can build all forges, and start doing the 56th quest, since you can only reset once per day. By the time you can reset again, you should have mastered the quest, and earned some new crystals . Reset, though this time you don't do any transfers. Keep doing step 6 until you've got your 4 resets. The remaining gold should be able to help you lc one last time. Enjoy your new ally slots and permanent items! This will help you lc as fast as possible. You can adjust this to your liking; for example if you like the challenge of rebuilding, maybe you only get yourself a volley to 300m each time, and that's it. Now, these are the only things you keep after resetting: Unspent nobility Unspent crystals Permanent items Achieved Achievements Wallposts Clan ownership Now, the last question is what is transfering? Transfering is a means of giving another player gold. It is an indirect proccess which uses volleying. Players, don't ask for others to transfer you free gold. Here's how you do it, for resetting and other purposes: Volley any player (regardless of starting price) 55 rounds; this means you and your friend hire the person 55 times each. The giver drops the ally after 55 rounds or more. Repeat steps 1 and 2 untill the giver has lost (from dropping) the ammount of gold he wants to transfer. So if I have 10b, and want to transfer 3b, when I'm at 7b, I stop. This ensures a 99% transfer rate if you do it properly. Keep in mind, while the starting price doesn't matter in terms of gold, but if you start at too high a price, you may not be able to do a full 55 rounds. If you start at too low a price, it may take forever to finish. To calculate an ally's price after "y" ammount of hires, use the formula: end price = current price * 1.05 ^ ammount of hires. Remember BEDMAS . So there you have it! Enjoy . Starting Out So, this is my suggestion for starting out. However, this is a guide, not a rulebook, so like most things in this guide, you can change things. Nevertheless, one thing you can't change is allies lol. As a grower, you must invest money in allies, and actively hit inactives. So without further adue, here's what to do. Pick a kingdom name, and banner (the banner's really have no difference, go for you favorite color ). Go with the balanced build in the tutorial. Afterwards, raze the guild and build a workshop. Find someone with 400/200 stats from the battle list (home tab -> battle button). Hit this guy as much as you can. If he replies, or retaliates, find another guy. You may also get hit several times, and lose many battles. It is inevitable at this stage - don't sweat it. You will also notice you got hired several times. Soon, you should be able to reach your 150k land. Each time you explore a new land, alternate workshops and stables. Each time you build/upgrade, find a new target with half the (bonus to allies) defense as your (bonus to allies) attack. Now, start hiring some 100k allies (allies tab -> hire allies button -> price range textbox). You can also upgrade some buildings to level 2, and explore your 300k land. Ally stats don't matter when you're growing. Keep doing this: farm, hire allies, farm. If someone is active and angry, reply you are sorry and find a new target. After you've explored your 300k land (also don't upgrade all your buildings to level 2), start hiring allies whenever you have gold out (over 100k). When you have 1m in allies (add their prices up), you can start saving up for your 750k land, and explore it. After this, finish upgrading your buildings to level 2. If an ally sells, hire someone else of equal price. Maintain a minimum 1m in allies, but no more than 2m. Starting from now, always have as much in allies, as the cost of your next land. So your next land is 1.5m, so save 1.5m in allies before saving up again, and exploring. If an ally sells, get someone else of equal price. After saving up enough to hire your next land, invest until you have as much in allies as your new next land cost. Now, you can upgrade some again (not all), of your buildings to level 3. Then, start saving up 2.5m in allies (your next land cost). When you have 2.5m in allies, replace you workshops with forges and stables with beastiaries. After you've finished replacing your tier 1 buildings with tier 2s, save up another 2.5m and explore. In the future, alternate forges and beastiaries. Remember to always maintain as much in allies as your next land cost.After you've explored your 5m land (and invested 5m in allies), you can start upgrading your buildings to level 2. By now, you should have a good idea of how the game works. You may get stolen a lot, but you only lose a small ammount of gold (0.08% of what's left out). This is another good reason why you hire allies. When you reach 70-100k attack, start building guilds instead of beastiaries and forges. So you should have learned the basics by now, including some of the things I didn't explain at first. More money into allies = more money made per attack. That is known as allies plunder, the staple source of income for growers. Also, guilds give higher plunder than forges/beastiaries, but are too expensive at the beginning. Finally, the balanced building (except for tier 1) gives you an extra 2 hits from full regen, but it takes an extra 5 minutes to fully regen (it is the same rate as other buildings, 2 hits per 5 minutes). So always have 1 balanced building. If you want to become a pure spy, start out as an attack or hansel build first (explained more in Clans/Wars -> Spies) Quests Quests are another option for earning "gold" in the game. One thing I must stress, is do not use crystals when growing, and do not quest either. Quests are another option for earning "gold" in the game, but earn you far less gold, and have a lower success rate. The first quest gives ~2.5k per success, and the last quest gives ~7m per success (you can make 12m a hit when build complete). However, they occasionally give you crystals, and also nobility points. In addition, when completing certain quests, you will get a cash reward and crystals. Each quest gives a certain percent of mastery per successful completion of the quest (victory screen). As you go up, the percentage of mastery earned is slower and slower each time (takes more completions to master the quest). Quest mastery, like achievements counters, reset after a reset. So after a reset you can remaster a quest for the rewards (crystals) again. Quests can also be used as banks; you do the quest until you are 1 success from mastering it, and in a war, you can complete it quickly for the rewards, or use it to recover from a strip. Sometimes quests are refered to as numbers, so here they are: 1. Excavate 2. The Search for Treasure 3. To Catch a Thief 4. Attack Bandits 5. Escort Convoy 6. Unwelcome Guests 7. Royal Protection 8. Preventative Measures 9. Destroy Trade Route 10. Protect Your Land 11. Held for Ransom 12. Sabotage 13. To the Rescue 14. Attack Convoy 15. Intruders 16. Rescue the Princess 17. Protect the Convoy 18. Fighting Back 19. Mind Tricks 20. For Revenge 21. Deliver to Safety 22. Spill their Blood 23. The Hunted 24. Battle at Valhalla 25. Stealing Business 26. Under the Bridge 27. Theft 28. Seek and Destroy 29. Raiding Mission 30. Hunting Sorcerers 31. Held for Ransom 32. Fighting Giants 33. Preemptive Strike 34. Hunting Season 35. Pirate Defense 36. Stealing Gold 37. No Fly Zone 38. Disruption 39. For the Love of the Hunt 40. Vengeance 41. Stealing from a Thief 42. Pillage and Plunder 43. Escort Convoy 44. Preemptive Strike 45. Guard Duty 46. A Cold Spell 47. Stealing from a Thief 48. Icy Structures 49. Sabotage 50. Melting Point 51. Revenge 52. Invading Forces 53. Push them Back 54. Escort Convoy 55. Voice in the Dark 56. Icy Grip 57. Gates of Hell 58. Facing the Storm 59. Living Dead 60. Disruption 61. The Darkness 62. Push them Back 63. Evil Temples 64. The Edge of Winter 65. Rescue Mission 66. Army of the Damned 67. Free from Evil 68. Kill them all 69. Enemy's Gate Allies Allies Plunder As you may have noticed, allies is what makes this game unique, and they are really important for success in this game. So now, I will explain more about allies plunder. When you attack someone, you have two different gold incomes. The first is labeled (on the victory screen) "plunder", and the other "allies bonus". The plunder is known as "troops plunder". This number depends on your total strength comparison between you and your target, and the number of soldiers you have. This is a small, and unreliable source of income. Spies also have this, known as spies plunder (and the gold fluctuates as the number of spies decrease). The second number is known as "allies plunder". This number goes up and down depending on the money you've invested in allies. If you have no allies, this number will be 0. If you have more money invested in allies, the number will go up. It doesn't matter the number of allies you have, just the total value of them. 10 1m allies produces the same result as 1 10m ally. This is a stable source of income because you will have the same ammount of allies whenever you attack anyone (you should maintain a similar level). Now, this allies plunder is capped by a plunder cap. The plunder cap is dependent on two things: your build, and your build compared to your opponent's build. First, higher tier buildings have a higher plunder cap. Towers give no plunder and have give no plunder cap (do not raise it). Guilds give the highest plunder cap. In addition, guilds are considered the "weakest", so in the strength comparison part, the plunder cap will rise again. Towers are considered the strongest, so towers are worst for plunder. The stronger you are, buildwise, compared to your opponent, the less you make. The "weaker" you are, the more you make. So essentially, hire allies for more money made per attack. Build guilds (although you will always need at least 1 troop building) makes more plunder. Allies Bonus Now, when you hire allies, they give a bonus to your real stats. What you see on other's profiles, is really their bonus to their owner (so you, if you hired them). This is directly related to their build, which is the principle source of strength, so most people call these "stats". As you learned in the Glossary, the allies bonus from each building is the troops * unit stats / 50. In the Glossary, it also lists the allies bonus from each building. Your bonus to allies (bonus to your owner, your stats) is in the middle of your profile. It's in green and the section lists your bonus to allies and bonus from allies. When you hire many strong allies, their bonuses add up to a lot. This strength is static; when you own those allies, those bonuses are the same. Obviously, you don't have allies hired away nonstop, and when they do you hire them back. As you learned in the Glossary, your building strength decreases as your troops decreases. Allies bonus stays the same as you hit an opponent. However, when you are still growing, do not worry about allies bonus. When you are build complete, start looking to increase your bonus from allies. At the moment, you should find allies with about 40 attack and def stats (total) per 1k of hire price. Also, try to use most of your ally spots. So if I have 400b, and 250 ally slots, I get allies around 2b, which means I'll use up all my 400b gold over 200 allies. This is because cheaper allies generally have better stat to price ratios. You want to leave some extra ally slots because it becomes a problem when you have extra gold (for example bought Chaos pack) but no ally slots. So, there are 3 types of ally styles (as an owner): 1. Plunder allies: these are allies you simply hire for plunder. You can have 1 big ally, or several small ones. I prefer having several allies as it is easier to sell for emergency reasons (not upgrading), and it would really such if your 1 plunder ally was reset for inactivity. 2. Strength allies: these are allies with good stats (for their price). You hire them to increase your overal strength from bonus from allies. This is useful in wars when you have to stay under 20% troops, but have your allies bonus to aid your strength (since your building strength is at 20%). 3. Chat allies: these are allies that you hire to chat with in ally chat. It's Bominator's favorite kind and you can make it your own personalised channel. Notes No ally is completely "yours". They can be hired away, and you can ask to keep him, but it's not like "you're not allowed to hire this ally". On the other hand, you can say that you'll farm the hirer if he hires your ally, but don't whine about it. When you drop an ally, the decrease 25% in value, and you get back 70% of what you paid. This is the same when an ally resets. This is to prevent people from volleying up alts for cash, then resetting them back for a full refund for the keeper. Allies increase 1.05% in value per hire. When your ally is hired, you get back 101.5% of what you paid (1.5% profit). Allies make 1.5% of their hire price when hired, but that is capped at 1 million. Transfering cash is making use of the 1.5% profit when an ally is hired to send cash. The first step is to volley a player 55 rounds (110 total hires) or more. The giver keeps, and drops the ally. Keep doing this until the keeper has lost as much cash as he wants to transfer. The reciever should end up with 99% of the cash the giver lost, if you did it right. So the cash has been "transfered". The starting price doesn't matter, but make sure it isn't too high so that you can't complete 55 rounds, or it isn't too low so that the proccess takes forever. To calculate a players value after a certain amount of hires, use the formula: current price * 1.05 ^ ammount of hires. Key Points Hire allies for more allies plunder (staple source of income) per attack (10 1m allies is the same as 1 10m ally). Allies plunder depends on the money you've invested in allies. Allies plunder cap depends on your build, and your building-strength comparison to your attack (so your plunder cap varies per target, unless they have the same build). Guilds are considered "weaker", therefore give a higher plunder cap. You need as much as your next land in allies for max plunder (reached your plunder cap). If your next land is 100m, you need 100m in allies. At 25 lands, you'll need about 5b. After exploring a new land, the first thing you should do is to save up in allies until you have as much in allies as your new next land cost. Even if you want to be a pure spy, start out as an attack or hansel build first (explained more in the Clans/Wars -> Spies section). Before you're land complete, don't worry about ally stats. After you've build completed, get allies with approximately 40 attack and defense (total) per 1k of hire price. Clans and Wars Clans Nowadays, clans are a big part of the game, and crucial for the player. Now, I will start off with this: Do not start a clan unless you are build complete. Why? Well think about it. If you aren't build complete, you suck for an owner. So your clan sucks. Any smart players (players who will be strong) and any strong players (players who are strong) have no reason to join your clan right? The only recruits are the brainless players. So then, in a month, you think "Gee! I waste 10 bucks for this crappy clan that never got anywhere!" So weak clans never grow. So I'll start off with picking a clan. First, go to the clan strength leaderboard (home tab -> leaders button -> clans button). Scroll through the top 50, and see which clan you like. Read their clan info. So find a clan you like, and note their subclan. It will usually say in their clan bio. Apply to their subclan! Those clans are strong, and will be able to help you and all, if you are willing to be loyal. Those strong clans usually have a subclan for recruits, and do not let strangers or weaklings into their main clan. Here, be loyal, and you will be taught in depth (although they would probably just point you back to this guide xD ), and be given help. So what if I want to start my clan? Well first off, are you build complete? As I explained above, weak clans never grow. So you must be a strong leader. Secondly, get ~2 good, and preferably strong or knowledgable friends to help run your clan. Ask some friends if they can help you start off. So now, you have 10 decent players, and you can start recruiting players. This does NOT mean spamming world chat or making a recruitment thread in the forums. This means making a clan bio in the forums explaining your ideals. This means looking at noobs or other players who look dedicated to the game, and wall the personally. Soon, you should have a decent member base, and your friends can go back. The rest is up to you . And quickly, back to clan joiners, do not join a clan based on hearing them in world chat, or a wall message that appears to have been copied and pasted. You want a clan you picked. Warring This is Kingdoms at WAR, so obviously don't cry over a fight. This ranges from farming, something I will cover, to strip wars. So I suppose there's three levels. Now, farming is hitting someone, excluding scouts (they barely hurt you and don't use pots), over 5 times a day, for two or more consecutive days. I will explain the origin. At the beginning of this game, it was truely war. People fought, but enjoyed the spirit. Then, OSFs appeared, and a 5 hit max rule per day was developed, to ensure everybody could get some easy gold. Today, hitting an osf over 5 times in a day is still automatically farming. However, in January, there was a big noob influx, and most of them became reliant of free gold and OSFs. They also adopted 5 hits max a day as farming for themselves, and that generation has grown to most of our population today. So let me clarify, farming is hitting someone, excluding scouts, over 5 times a day for 2 or more consecutive days! Nevertheless, you can still enforce a "5 hit rule" on your clan; if someone hits your clanmate 5 times, you retaliate! Just don't call it farming. You can retaliate for any sort of percieved agression (or no reason at all > ). So farming is like the most basic level of war. The most extreme level is a strip war. These wars are "unofficial", meaning there is no real system to determine a winner. In this occasion, the sides attempt to utterly destroy the other team. This is done by "stripping". This is hiring a target's allies, then stealing and hitting him until his gold is gone. Ideally, you wait until the target is asleep, hire all his allies quickly and have mercs and your clan, subclan, and allies steal until his gold is down. Stealing takes 0.08% of the gold the defender has out, and attacking takes 1% of the gold left out. However, if you attack someone until they have under 20% troops, they cannot be hit or stolen for 10 minutes. So if you got enough stealers, try to just steal (and hit twice every 5 minutes) until the gold is gone. This devastates players, and causes many people to quit. The goal is to decimate the enemy. Finally, there are the official wars. This is the two day plunder based system implemented into the game. Each side has an active roster (players can sit out if they wish), and the active players attack and steal each other, trying to earn more plunder for their side. The side with the most plunder after 48 hours wins. Simple right? Well there's more to it. First of all, when you hit an enemy, 20% of the gold you would normally make goes into a "war tax". This is stored in a budget, together from both sides. At the end of the war, it is distributed to the winners based on contribution. So the player on the winning team who earned the most plunder gets the largest share. That is why on the results page, it shows you've earned 1b plunder (as an example) but only got 0.5b rewards afterwards; since the final reward is from the 20% budget (overal you still got more gold). There is a lot of strategy for these wars. First of all, since the goal is to earn most plunder, you should have allies for allies plunder. Max plunder is the best, or close. You also want to not be hit, since when you are hit the opponent earns plunder. So stay under 20% troops as much as possible (this makes you "too weak" to attack). This also means that if you will be a weaker player, don't join the war. You will be a liability as you can be hit, but you won't be able to earn plunder since you are too weak to win against the enemy and/or you don't have allies to earn sufficient plunder. In addition, never join a war in advance. Since you can join a war halfway, but you can't leave a war without taking out your contributions, but leaving your blood. This means when you leave a war (leave the clan), the plunder you've earned is subtracted, but the plunder earned on you remains for the opponent. So anyways, lets say my war starts at 12:00pm. I finish school at 3:00pm. Instead of joining at 8:00am (war has been accepted), and getting hit as an "active" player from 12 to 3, I should just wait until I finish school, then start hitting the opponent. Always join starting from when you can be most active. So if I have a piano lesson from 3:30pm to 5:00pm, then I finish my piano, then join. In fact, it is great if you can join for the last 6 hours of a war, but stay under 20% troops for the whole 6 hours. Putting this together, you have a strategy like this: First, you send out your strongest players, who can withstand hits. They slowly grind, until the very end when all the rest of your players jump in and stay "too weak", and hit the enemy roster. Now there are some other things you should know in a war. First of all, the ideal war build is a hansel build, since the hansel build earns the most plunder. However, except for players on the alliance leaderboard, they don't have enough total attack or total defense to break enemy lines, or take hits. You end up becoming an easy target. So, since guilds give more plunder (key for war), get as many guilds as you can, without sacrificing attack and defense. Also, spies aren't very useful in a war, since spies earn minimal income. Pure spies can be hired and farmed for easy gold. Nevertheless, find 3 targets on the enemy roster with few guilds and no spy towers, and have your whole clan steal from them. Together, the steals will earn a bit more plunder. After hitting someone, post your results! So let's say I attacked majesty 5 times, and lost 5 times. I now have 10k troops, out of 30k. I say "1. majesty atk0/5np 10/30". "1." stands for majesty's rank; always include your target's rank! This is the easiest way for your clanmates to find your target to help pin him or whatever. The rank is followed by the target's name, which can be abbreviated since you've posted their rank. "atk" means you've attacked the target; post "spy" if you were spying. "0/5" is the number of successful hits out of total hits I got. "np" means "not pinned"; post "p" if you hit the guy until you got the "too weak" message. If you were stealing or scouting, you post pinned if they're down to 0 spies (they lost 0 spies on your last hit). Finally, "10/30" is the remaining troops/spies you have, in thousands. It's important to post this for your clan to plan. Whenever a target is not too weak to attack, it's important to hit them, as if you are fighting an experienced clan, they'll know to keep too weak most of the time. This also means, try to limit assasinating; as it pins the player but doesn't earn you plunder. Finally, keep track of "leakers". These are players who getting hit a ton earning your opponent plunder. Keep track of players' losses, and you may need to kick someone if they've been inactive and losing a lot of plunder. You can't say "well I think he may be active in the second 24 hours"; as I've explained, only join when you are ready to be active. Other terminology can be found in the Glossary. The final thing I want to mention is plunder wars. These are wars where one clan is just OSFs and the other clan farms them. This can be used to stimulate your members to grow. Simply post the open OSFs in the clan announcement. Pots Smoke pot when warring. Lol jkjk. Pots are items bought from the marketplace. They give bonuses. Atk/spyatk pots will have an option to use whichever ammount you have (1 of each type though) when you attack. For def/spy def pots, it's more complicated. When someone hits you, the game will calculate what are your chances of winning. If it is 99%, no pots will be used. If it is not 99%, the game will calculate which pots are needed to gain a 99% chance of winning, starting with the weakest pots. So if with the first 2 pots I'll have a 99% chance of winning, that's all that will be used. If with 7 pots I'll have a 99% chance of winning, that's all that will be used. If with all pots you still don't have 99% chance of winning, the game will use all of the pots you have. When you first start out, you shouldn't need pots. For the rest of the paragraph, unless I specify, when I say pot it means def pots (def and spy def). From 10-20 lands, you should have about 50 of each pot (slowly build up, you will only need like the first 8 def pots from 10-15 lands). Now, you shouldn't be really warring at this stage. You should be in a sub of a strong clan (top 50) because those are the only ones that succeed. Don't join those wars unless you are lcbc since you will let your clan down (you won't be able to earn plunder since you are too weak, but the enemy will be able to farm you). Now, from 20-25 lands, you should have about 100 of each pot. When you are lcbc, you should have about 2000 or more of each pot, depending on how often you war and your pockets. Don't invest a ton in pots, as that money is static and could be used into the ally market. For a war, we'll calculate pot use. You can be attacked 59 times in an hour. Let's say it's 60. 60 * 48 = 2880 hits if you are not active at all and are only being farmed. So have about 3k pots, so you won't be empty when you are out of the war. Remember, only join a war if you can be really active and stay under 20% troops most of the time. For spying, you should also have the same ammount of pots. While you can be stolen until you have no gold (are under 20% troops) most likely you won't be stolen much since stealing isn't a good source of plunder (unless you are the unlucky 2-3 of course ). Spies Spies are a strange aspect in the game. Originally they were made to compliment troops (assasinate and scout), but people have really adopted it as their gamestyle, evident as pure spies. However, note spies will always be at a "disadvantage" because they were not the main point in the game. Here are the facts: - You stay unknown and hidden. - Pure spies are players with only guilds. An LCBC pure spy has stats like "324 000/324 000". When pure spies have gold out, you can attack them. If you're a pure spy, bank in the cheapest atk pot. When pure spies have under 20% spies, they cannot be stolen. Osfs are also pure spies, who leave gold out to be attacked. - An osf is a pure spy who leaves gold out to be attacked. Osfs should bank in the cheapest atk pot, or cheapest spy def pot if they rarely get steal attempts on. When opening for your clan or the public, sell the cheap pot quickly, one by one. This maximizes the gold others make for the gold you lose. For people hitting an osf, there are several rules. First of all, the normal osf has a 5 hit max rule. If you exceed 5 hits on an osf, it is farming! However, exceeding 5 hits on a normal player for 1 day is not farming! Some osfs have allow unlimited hits - these are "NUFs". If you have a clan osf, obviously you are probably allowed to hit whenever he has gold out. Do NOT hit other clan osfs at all. Most clans take this very seriously. Another thing to note, is to always read osf walls! Read their wall it usually tells you if they're open or not and how many hits you are allowed. - You make a lot less plunder - not usefull much in wars - stealing wasn't ment to be the source of income in the game. - Mercs were originally pure spies who help with anything to get paid. Back then, stealing caused hefty damage the the victim, which made them popular. Now, you only lose 0.08% of the gold you have out. - If you do not have any troop buildings and have 0 gold, you can't be hit. It's also pointless for people to try to hit you. In this sense, spies are "invincible" since you can't hurt them (bank in pots). - If a spy has less than 20% spies, they can't be atked or spied. - Spies are worth more generally as allies (player with 10k spyatk and spydef is worth more than a player with 10k atk and def). - If you want to be a pure spy, start out as a hansel build first! You earn a lot more gold and will grow faster till lc - then save 50b in allies then sell them and you can convert (approx. 1b per guild at the moment, although new buildings/upgrades are coming soon so don't do any build changes yet! Save the rest of your gold for emergencies and stuff. - A variation of a pure spy is a hansel build - use this to grow! Hansel build makes a lot as guilds add a lot to troops allies plunder - Spy plunder is based on your strength versus enemy strength, how many spies you have at the moment, and the ammount of guilds you have. So when stealing a stronger opponent, you make more. As your spies go down, you earn less. With more guilds, you earn more. How much the opponent has out doesn't matter for how much you make. However, the more they have out the more they lose per steal (0.08% of what they have out). - A hansel build is a build with 1 troop building and 23 guilds (or less guilds if you're still lcing). Since guilds give most plunder for attacking, this build achieves the maximum allies plunder (money made per attack). When lc, you need about 5b in allies (same for other builds too). This is the most effective way to grow (although don't go pure hansel build at first unless you have a reliable osf because you will have low atk and won't be able to succesfully hit inactives). - You stay unknown and hidden!!! Mercenaries Mercs were originally pure spies who would help with anything (e.g.: stripping) for pay. Nowadays, there are clans full of mercs for hire. They generally will do anything for gold (or free if you're a friend or they have a similar target or enjoy the fun). There are also atk mercs, and even hybrid build mercs. In a war, essentially any non-clanmate who joins the war is considered a merc. Merc is for mercenary so essentially it can be anyone. The Oracle The Oracle is where you can buy stuff and use those stuff. Essentially: you can buy nobility, crystals, and propacks. Propacks give you a "Pro" status and give a permanent item with stat bonuses (usually percentage). It seems quite obvious but recently noobs are stupider and stupider and have even asked these questions. One noob actually thought pros were professional gamers and had the advantage in the game because they got free nobility and others werent allowed to get or buy nobility xD . Anyways, that's the main propack. They'll also give out some nobility and speakers with the propack. You can also buy nobility, which can be redeemed also at the oracle for 7% of your next land (or 210m for a lc player). The limit I believe is 1500nobs a day (correct me if I'm wrong). There are also crystals which you activate in the Oracle which regenerates all your troops and spies to full. This can also be done with nobility. DO NOT USE REGENERATION UNTILL YOU ARE LC - POSSIBLY USE IF YOU HAVE MAX PLUNDER AND THERE IS A LIMITED OSF AND YOU ARE CLOSE TO LC!!! Finally, you can also change your name at the oracle. Transferring and Linking Transfering an Account: Transfering an account is when you get a new iDevice and you want to move your old kaw file over to the new one so you can play normally obviously. To link, you must email device_transfers@athinkingape.com . Here's what you do: 1. Find both iDevice's UDIDs. This is a specific code for each iDevice 40 characters long. To find this, get the free app "Udidit" in the AppStore 2. Start a KaW account on the new iPod. 3. Email the Devs at device_transfers@athinkingape.com with both UDIDs with their corresponding account names, and which account do you want to keep (transfer over) It should look something like this: Subject: Account Transfer Body: Hi! I recently got a new iDevice. I would like to transfer over [MainAccountUsername] over to my new iDevice [TransferAccountUsername]. Thanks! [UDID1] - [MainAccountUsername] [UDID2] - [TransferAccountUsername] Devs are usually pretty quick about this. Now UDID is the prefered method of transfer. So obviously now you should get your current iDevice's UDID in case you lose it or it breaks or something; so then you only need to get the new iDevide UDID and make a bogus account. The other method is to give the Devs your MochiGames username and password in place of the UDID if you have linked your account to the web - which you should. If you have neither of these, which shouldnt happen now, explain your situations to the Devs and they'll ask you a bunch of security questions so they know it's you. Linking an Account: Linking is when you connect an iDevice account to a web account or vice versa. The web account is at kingdomsatwar.com and the service is provided by MochiGames. When you link, you can play KaW on your file from your iDevice, or on a computer with internet connection by logging into MochiGames. You can link either way; whether you got an iDevice first, or started with the web. Both are very similar too in the process of linking: 1. If you started on an iDevice, go to kingdomsatwar.com and start an account (tutorial and all) and register with MochiGames or do FaceBook connect. If you started on the computer, make an iPod account (tutorial and all). 2. Go to your profile on the computer. 3. On the top right hand side, there will be a button saying "Link iPhone". Follos the steps, which essentially consists of inputting your iDevice username, going onto the iDevice, retrieving a code sent to you automatically, and entering it into the web-kaw. Afterwards, you will be presented with the option to choose which account to keep after linking (presumably the original account). So whichever one you choose, this will be the account that comes up when you log on to the web or launch the iDevice app. - Note: you can't link an account if you already have linked it. What you want to do is to transfer the old iPod to the new iPod (read above on transfering) Community Kaw has a very tight nit community - that's part of why I love this game. There's a world and clan chat, you wall players directly, you hit each other, there's an in-game forum, and so on. It's a game that actually depends on the people. Now, this means we also have etique - things you shouldn't do. Here are some pointers: - devs are the people who make the game. they chat once in a while but as kaw is growing fast they are often busy trying to update and maintain the game. anyone who's done programming knows it's real hard and time-consuming. in the actual game, they go through "kaw", and in the forums, they go through "kaw_admin". there are about 5 people working on kaw, and their company is A Thinking Ape. - do not spam feedback - just send 1ce a day with your question. nevertheless, they do still get spammed so it may take a while. you can email support@athinkingape.com if it's something important - questions go to mods - cowlegend999 and benny have best chance of answering a question if you wall them. tmh does a lot through wc, and his wall gets spammed so he rarely answers it. or you can post on the forums - we'll answer it quickly. try to use devs as a last resort - don't bog them down - DO NOT ASK FOR A HIRE OR VOLLEY EVER!!! THERE ARE BETTER WAYS TO EARN CASH - EXPLAINED HERE OR YOU CAN WALL ME DIRECTLY - YOU WILL BE THANKFULL WHEN YOU GROW STRONGER (and it will be faster to grow too - do not spam - do not post your referal code anywhere but the referal code section of the forums (but noone looks at it anyways) - do not bypass the filter - do not say kaw sucks (why are you here?) - do not ask anyone but your friends to help a farmer - do not ask for kaw to stop farming or stripping - don't post on majesty's wall - don't cry that majesty blocked you - you are not useful to him and thousands of people try to wall him anyways. it clogs his newsfeed. in addition, how did you know you were blocked unless you tried to wall him (with something useless)? - don't make a "questions" thread - don't pressure devs for new updates - don't make threads saying "kaw_admin please read" - don't make flame threads - it's not our problem - do not make any threads requesting for help unless it's a question. you can ask a question that will help you. for example, don't ask "hire me I need gold" but ask "how do I get gold" - suggestion threads should have titles like Something-Suggestion? where "Something" is whatever that suggestion is for, and the content should be something like "I have this idea about... what do you guys think?" - make sure it's not already a suggested idea - devs already know basically everything we want - don't post "evidence" or accuse people of fraud/oracle hacking in the forums - email support@athinkingape.com - Farming is hitting someone (atks, scouts, assasinates, not scouts as they don't hurt you) over 5 times a day for 2 or more consecutive days. Farming is a courtesy, not a rule. BBCode Now I will talk about BBCode. What is bbcode? Well, bbcode is for forums in a similar way html is for webpages. Bbcode also uses tags (although with "[" and "]" instead of "<" and ">"). They give the special effects like bold. When used, the forum will automatically add the effects to the text. If you want to post code without having it automatically rendered, use the tags Code: [code]code goes here [/code] to display the raw code. Here are all the bbcode's you can use: Bold: Code: [b]text goes here[/b] Underline: Code: [u]text goes here[/u] Italics: Code: [i]text goes here[/i] Color: Code: [color=red]text goes here[/color] "red" can be replaced with: (a) any other basic color, such as blue (see here); or (b) hex code (see here). For rainbow text, go here and choose rainbow text. Then copy the bbcode and paste it here. Size: Code: [size=100]text goes here[/size] "100" can be replaced with any integer from 20 to 200. Links: Code: [url=http://www.google.com]text goes here[/url] "http://www.google.com" can be replaced with any link, although it must begin with "http://". If you want to link to forums within kaw, you can just post the raw url. You can also do this with other outside urls (you just want be able to customize the text of the link). Quotes with no name: Code: [quote]text goes here[/quote] Quotes with name: Code: [quote=Bob]text goes here[/quote] "Bob" can be replaced with any other text you want (it will say "[name you put] said:" at the top of the quote, and then everything else you typed in between the two quote tags) Images: 1. Download the free app "Photobucket" from the AppStore. 2. Register/Login. 3. Upload the photo (Upload Media tab). 4. Open the photo in the app (My Albums tab). 5. Click on the "i" at the bottom right corner. 6. Copy the "IMG" code (looks like Code: [img]12345.photobucket.com...[/img] ). 7. Paste the code here. You can also use the Code: [img]picturelinkhere[/img] code for other image links you have. Lists: There are 2 main types of lists. The main concept, is that you use the code Code: [list]list items here[/list] to tell the forum that you are posting a list, and you use the code Code: [*]list item for each list item. There are ordered (which branches into numbered, lettered, and roman numeral lists), and unordered lists. I will give the examples. Code: [list][*]Hi[*]Hmmm this is an unordered list[*]Bye[/list] [list=1][*]Hi[*]Hmmm this is a numbered list[*]Bye[/list] [list=a][*]Hi[*]Hmmm this is a lettered list[*]Bye[/list] [list=i][*]Hi[*]Hmmm this is a roman numeral list[*]Bye[/list] Those codes, will produce results like this, respectively: Hi Hmmm this is an unordered list Bye Hi Hmmm this is a numbered list Bye Hi Hmmm this is a lettered list Bye Hi Hmmm this is a roman numeral list Bye Combining Codes: You can also combine codes together, for results like this. That code looks like Code: [b][u]this[/u][/b] Notice how the underline code starts after the bold code and ends before it? It must always be that way. Imagine it like the layers of the earth. The outer layers must always be on the outside. The text "this" is like the core, the underline code is like the mantle, and the bold code is like the crust. This also works with lists, producing nested lists. It looks like this: Code: [list=1][*]Hello[*]Hmmm this is a numbered list[*]...[list][*]Hello[*]Hmmm this is an unordered list inside a numbered list[*]Bye[/list][*]Bye[/list] Hello Hmmm this is a numbered list ... Hello Hmmm this is an unordered list inside a numbered list Bye Bye You can use any combinations of list types; it doesn't have to be numbered and unordered. You can also do several layers. In addition, you can add any of the other codes like bold to it. Have fun! Conclusion If you have any more questions, suggestions, or etc. wall me or pal me. You can find me in the "kaw" room as "raekye". Version: 1.0 - Basic guide in crude form. Updates will be coming soon. I know this may be very long - sorry bare with me! 1.0.1 - Fixed coding error and Notepad glitch which caused it to be super long. Hopefully it's fixed and not so long - sorry all :S 1.1 - Tidied up a bit. Added Quests and Statistics. 1.1.1 - Fixed reset information. Added a table for buildings - hope it works . 1.2 - Removed table as our forums don't show it. Devs and mods would it be able to enable the table code for BBcode?. Added bigger titles and sizing. Fixed allies information. Fixed coding error. Fixed code info. 1.3 - Updated BBCode section. 1.4 - Made BBCode easier to read. Updated land list. Updated syntax. 2.0 - Reorganization. Information fixes. Ty all By: the one and only Raeki there can be. Written in: BBCode Editor by the one and only Raeki there can be (I wrote the program).
Re: KaW Full Guide - 1.0 It looks good but I have to say 1 in 5000 noobs who look at this will read it all
Re: KaW Full Guide - 1.0 Oops... Much longer than i thought... Didnt realise itd turn out so big in the iphone :/
Re: KaW Full Guide - 1.0 Remember - u have to replaxe < and > with [ and ] - as i bolded in the guide xD reason is cuz whn u use [ and ] it automatically makes that invisible and does the effects to the text
Re: KaW Full Guide - 1.0 Amazing guide raeki! A few parts were a little confusing and it was a little long but with a bit of editing this is what the noobs should look at first right after the tutorial. It would help them grow faster for sure. I remember when I started I watched WC and all the convo was over my head (pinning, volleys, hires, farming). You aiming for mod? Bc with this kind of dedication you will certainly become one soon enough. Great job overall. RAEKI FOR MOD!!!FORMER ALLY LB LEADER
Re: KaW Full Guide - 1.0 Lol idk ive always wanted to make this guide parents divorcing so mom = stressrd = less kaw so i kinda had to rush this. I will be organizing and making it better to read. I would like to be top of lb again tho ty for reading
Re: KaW Full Guide - 1.0 Good work raeki, but I think smaller, more focussed guides are easier on readers hunting for specific knowledge. That said, there are those who like to have all their info in one place. I'm sure many players will read large chunks of this & find value in it.
Re: KaW Full Guide - 1.0 Good job Raeki, I must congratulate you for the effort; it certainly benefits a lots of KAW players, especially beginners,